How to install a boot light in a Fiat Panda

This panda of mine is strange, for some reason it doesn't have a boot light, another cost saving measure from Fiat I guess. Luckily most Pandas come with everything installed for the boot light except the light itself.

The photo below shows the whole in the left hand side of the boot under the parcel shelf (2). You will have the mounting but no light fitting. The two cross head screws (1) and a hole for black plastic clip (3).
 

(Cam C902)

Firstly you need to gain access to the wiring, begin by removing the two cross head screws (1) in the picture.

After the screws are out pull the top of the carpet away from behind the plastic shelf fittings and from the rubber seal around the door frame.

 

Locate the wire with the white plug from behind the carpet. As in my picture it will most likely be taped to the bigger bundle of wires, if so remove the tape.

You can then feed the plug, the black plastic clip and the wire thorough the prepared crosshair cut in the carpet. The picture below shows the plug, wire and clip correctly inserted through the carpet.

Make sure the black plastic clip can reach its hole in the shelf fitting (marked as (3) in the first picture), then slide the carpet back into place behind the plastic fittings and fix into place with the screws.

Pass the wire through the light mounting hole (2) and then connect the light which should, in theory illuminate. Remember that the boot light times out after a certain length of time, so don't panic! Closing and re-opening the boot should activate the light.

The light fitting slides up into the mounting and will then snap in to place. The black plastic clip that supports the wire pushes, from behind the bracket, into the hole (3).

The last job to be done is to put the carpet back behind the rubber boot seal.

 

The light fitting is Fiat part number 0051878127

The door switch to turn the light on and off should already installed. BUT...do check!

Do make sure your car has the appropriate boot latch incorporating the microswitch for detecting open/closed condition or you will be disappointed. I have read that some models don't have the appropriate boot latch.

I don't know how you tell, but thinking out loud here...I would expect the 'door open' dashboard light to be an indicator that you have the appropriate boot latch. For example, with the engine on, all four doors closed and the boot open making a red 'door open' dashboard light appear, I assume this means I have the appropriate boot latch incorporating microswitch for detecting open/closed condition. That's the test I did before buying the part.

Good luck

Installing a 12v power socket in a Fiat Panda

I’ve just been getting a 2009 Fiat Panda 1.3 Multijet.  For some strange reason it doesn’t have a 12v socket for the likes of my sat nav or ipod.  Doing some reading on the Fiat forum it appears that this is not an unusual occurrence, and doesn’t necessarily follow any model / spec detail??

 

This is where the 12v socket should be in the Panda (Cam C902)

Very strange? Why Fiat would leave out a £20 fitting that seems to be standard in all cars is any ones guess, welcome to the world of Fiat I suppose.

Anyway, after lots of reading on various Fiat forums two things were clear to me; if the wiring loom had a connector under the central console for a 12v socket, AND you had a fuse sitting in position F85 then I think it’s safe to say that your only missing the 12v socket fitting. 

PLEASE NOTE - Some owners have reported having either the connector or the fuse, but not both and in these circumstances any upgrade didn't work!  Therefore please check before buying any parts.

A quick check showed I had both, phew!

In short…. If you have one of these….

And one of these…See the highlighted fuse in position F85 (Fuse box in the engine compartment )

Then you only need this…..

Fitting Instructions
Ok, here’s your fitting instructions, you need two small flatbed screwdrivers and less than half an hour of your time.

Fitting is quite simple, pop out the tray in the central console with some flat blade screwdrivers.

Fit the orange casing through the new console trim making sure you align the cap to the right orientation.

Fit the 12v socket through the orange casing (it will only go in one way)

 

Connect the wiring loom connector to the socket and test with a suitable appliance (sat nav).  Remember the socket only has power while the ignition is switch on.

 

Once you have confirmed power is getting to the socket switch off and snap the trim in to place.

Job done.

Original part number for the trim 0735441990
Original part number for the 12v socket 0735383175

I got my parts from ebay, but any parts department should be able to get them.

Good luck.

White Knight Tumble Dryer Repair

We’ve have a White Knight 38 AW Tumble Dryer for the last three years.  Last week during a cycle it began to make the most horrendous rasping noise, as if the drum metal was rubbing against the outer casing.

 

White Knight 38 AW - ready for it's operation... (Cam C902)

It turns out that the dryer drum rests on some felt padding attached to the casing.  The felt padding had completely warn away and the drum was indeed rubbing (metal to metal) against the casing.

 You can see the felt has completely gone! (Cam C902)

The felt must be replaceable as checking web-sites for replacement parts I found some replacement sticky-back felt strips for £2.80 so thought it was worth having a go at repairing it myself, £2.80 isn’t going to break the bank nor can I make the problem worse. I ordered two strips, thinking one would be a backup in case I made a mistake but as it turned out, I needed both to complete the repair.  My order came to £9.50 (inc delivery).

 Felt Strips... not very high tech  (C902)

Time to strip the dryer down… First job was to remove the lid, attached by the three screws at the top of the casing.

 The back ready to be stripped (Cam C902)

Next for removal is the fan and element protector panel, (screws) followed by the heating element itself (more screws).

Nothing difficult so far... (Cam C902)

To make sure I remember where to replace the wiring I always take pictures for reference, (very handy for writing the blog too).

  The wires need to be removed so it's important to replace them correctly (Cam C902)

 Then the back casing can be removed… but not completely.  The fan blades do not allow you to remove the back casing totally but for this job you don’t need to.  As long as the back casing is tilted on an angle so that the ridge for the drum is exposed that’s enough.

 Time to clean and repair (Cam C902)

I then gave the ridge a good clean and vacuum,  the cleaner the better so the sticky felt strips have more chance of adhering to the ridge surface.  Sticking the felt strips on couldn’t be easier, just take your time and align them well.

 Felt strips in place (Cam C902)

Getting the drum back on the rim might be a little tricky as it’s now padded with new felt, it may help if you have someone to take the weight of the drum from the front to allow you to position the back casing.

 Nice snug fit (Cam C902)

Fitting is the reversal of the removal, remember to check your wiring too.  Job done! A £10 repair and an hours labour at most.  That's got to be better than £129 to buy a new dryer.

It’s obvious that the replacement felt was not a direct replacement part, nor does it appear to be as thick as the original but it works.  I will no doubt keep my eyes out for some similar sticky-back felt as it’s sure to ware out again.

Hope you find this useful.

Building a wildlife pond - Part 4

You can find Part 1 here  

You can find Part 2 here  

You can find Part 3 here  

Once you have added underlay protection to your pond and bought your pond liner you are ready for the last steps. A flexible liner is a popular choice for several reasons: it’s easier to transport since it comes folded in a box; it’s easier to install, it also allows you complete freedom of choice as far as the pond shape and depth is concerned.

9. Position the liner over the hole.
Lay the liner across the hole. Handle it gently and only tread on it with soft-soled shoes or bare feet. Weigh down the edges with enough rock to hold the liner in place, but not so much as to stop it from folding in to the pond as the liner fills with water. 

The most awkward job of the whole project. The small liner was 0.5 meters too small by my calculations and I couldn't take the chance. I had to go for the medium one which left lots of spare and much more cumbersome to move and arrange. (Cam C902)

Try and adjust the liner as you go. Tricky, very tricky (cam C902)

10. Start filling the pond liner.
As the water level rises the weight of the water will pull the liner into the contours of the hole. Adjust the rocks as required around the edge to allow this to happen.
You can cut off any excess liner once the pond is completely full but don’t do an exact trim until all your edging material is laid.  Remember you can trim any excess underlay material at this stage.

Trim the edges to something more manageable. Cam C902)

11. Lay your edging material.
Depending on what you are using for the edge of the pond this will either be number 11 or 12 on the job list.  I was using rocks from around the garden and wanted them to lay on top of the liner with the liner folded up behind the rock so that I could fill the pond further to allow the rocks sit in the water.  (If you are finishing off with turf or paving slabs then when the pond is full trim the liner and bury the edges in a trench filled with soil and cover with turf or paving slabs).

12. Trim off excess liner when the pond is full.
Once I was happy with the placement of all the rocks I gave the liner a final close trim.

13. Stock the pond with oxygenating plants.
Give your pond a day or two for the chlorine in the water to dissipate and then add your oxygenating plants.

Final jobs consisted of planting the submerged plants and marshy type plants. Arranging the rocks so that there are a few entrance and exits for any frogs or other wildlife. (Cam C902)

This visitor has come of his own accord, hope he is checking the pond out with a view to moving in. (Cam C902)

And that’s about it… don’t worry about the wildlife, it will find its own way to your pond.  All you have to do is sit back and enjoy.

And here is my pond three or four months old, it looks quite established now.  (Cam C902)

Good luck with your pond, let me know how you get on.

Building a wildlife pond - Part 3

You can find Part 1 here  

You can find Part 2 here  

Hopefully, you have decided the location, shape and size on your pond.  You have dug it out and re-deposited the soil and removed any sharp objects, stones and root systems.

All roots and sharp stones removed (Cam C902)

This next bit is a lot of fun…

7. Line the hole with a layer of soft building sand
If you enjoyed playing on the beach and building sand castles you’ll enjoy this job.  The sand sticks to the sidewalls of the pond much better than I expected so it's just a case of having fun.

Lined with sand, the first line of protection for the actual PVC liner. The sand was really fun to do and it started to look half decent. (Cam C902)

8. Line the sanded hole with underlay material.
This is the second line of protection for the actual PVC liner.  I used some bits of carpet underlay for the base of the pond and some spare roof liner material for the base and walls of the pond.  I held them in place with a few rocks.  (Doesn’t matter what this looks like as once the pond is finished you’ll never see it)

Lined with underlay the second line of protection for the actual PVC liner (Cam C902)

The liner will sit on the top of this and before you create a pond lip with the pond liner you trim off all of the visible excess underlay material.

I used a flexible PVC liner, these are the most common as they will adapt to any size and shape pond.

To calculate the size of the liner you require get you calculator and tape measure out and use the following formula

Length = length of pond + (2 x maximum depth) + 1m edging
Width = width of pond + (2 x maximum depth) + 1m edging

There are a few online calculators like the one here

Only a few steps to go now.

You can find Part 4 here

Building a wildlife pond - Part 2

You can find Part 1 here

So, hopefully you have though about the location, shape and size on your pond.  Now it’s time to get your hands dirty.

This space is just crying out to be used. (Cam C902)

2. Clear the top surface area of the pond from gravel, turf, grass etc and either reuse in other parts of the garden or keep to one side for any finishing touches.
This is a simple task and can be done in a spare half an hour, maybe after work through the week.

3. Before you dig know where the excavated soil is going to go.
This might seem like a simple consideration but believe me, more soil comes out of the ground than you can ever get back in.  What I didn’t consider until I starting digging was how compacted the soil was.  The very act of digging aerates the soil, which means you have about twice in volume to dispose of as comes out of the hole. 

Think about where this soil will go, unless you can disperse it elsewhere in the garden or you are planning to use it as the base for a rockery or other raised feature, you will have to order a skip and have it taken away.

I didn't consider this and had to do a bit of garden design on the hoof.  I ended up creating a whole new bedding area as a result.

After my first session, clearing the gravel, having a bit of a dig and realising I was going to have a lot of soil to get rid of. (Cam C902)

4. Dig the pond site to your planned shape and depth.
I dug the pond over a few days as I was re-depositing the soil as I went along.  I only have a small pond and I still found this hard work so spread it over a couple of evenings after work so that I could do the liner at the weekend.  I also didn’t want to make myself sick trying to do everything in one go.

 Doesn't look any different but I removed lots more soil.  Looks like I settled on a giant foot shape! (Cam C902)

Any larger stones I kept to one side until I was completely finished in case they were needed later.

5. Measure the deep end to make sure you are down far enough.
Dig a hole approximately 20cm deeper than required to allow for sand, matting and liner. Remember the deepest point needs to be at least 75cm so adding the 20cm mean a hole depth of 95cm.  You don't have to have a even depth at the bottom, as you can see below I opted for a deeper section to one end.

A final deep hole that should resist freezing. All roots and sharp stones removed (with a cut finger for my troubles) (Cam C902)

6. Clear the hole of any stones, roots, sharp edges and loose dirt.
This can be time consuming but the more diligent you are the better for the pond and the less likely you are at putting a hole in the pond liner.  You'll notice all the roots in the first photo have disappeared by the second photo.

You can find Part 3 here  

You can find Part 4 here

Building a wildlife pond - Part 1

Last year we built ourselves a garden pond.  We’d talked about it for a year or two and finally bit the bullet and gave it a go.  Although I’m no expert I think it’s worth sharing my experience and hope it helps you if you’re planning your own hole in the ground.

We wanted a wildlife pond, something to attract insects and frogs.  Apparently ponds support a greater diversity of life than any other garden habitat, and are one of the best ways to attract a range of wildlife. As well as creatures and plants living in the pond, mammals and birds will come to drink or bathe.  Sounds fun.

First off then is a list and a little planning, (Failure to plan is a plan to fail and all that).  The list also helps break the jobs into sizable, do-able chucks.  Most of the text below is a mixture of information I have gathered from various websites.

1. Decide on the site, shape and depth of the pond. 
2. Clear the top surface area of the pond from gravel, turf, grass etc and either reuse in other parts of the garden or keep to one side for any finishing touches.
3. Before you dig know where the excavated soil is going to go.
4. Dig the pond site to your planned shape and depth.
5. Measure the deep end to make sure you are down far enough.
6. Clear the hole of any stones, roots, sharp edges and loose dirt.
7. Line the hole with a layer of soft building sand
8. Line the sanded hole with underlay material.
9. Position the liner over the hole.
10. Start filling the pond liner.
11. Trim off excess liner when the pond is full.
12. Lay your edging material.
13. Stock the pond with oxygenating plants.

The pond before it was a Pond, 29 June 2010. This space is just crying out to be used. (Cam C902)

April is a good month to dig out a new pond as it gives you the rest of summer for it to get established, so let’s get started.

1. Decide on the site, shape and depth of the pond. 

The ideal pond site is in a sunny spot, sheltered from cold northerly winds and well away from trees that shed their leaves. Too much shade will encourage algal growth, while falling leaves will soon clog up the pond in autumn.

The simplest way of establishing the shape and size you want is to lay garden hose or rope out on the pond site, and to view it from various positions. A healthy pond needs to be in full sun for as may hours as possible every day. Plenty of sunshine will warm the water and encourage plant growth. Plants with floating leaves will give some shade to pond dwellers.

Think of pond maintenance, ease of access, will make this job much easier.

Allow for an overspill, ideally into a marshy area or a soak away. You don’t want excess water draining into a neighbour’s garden.

No pond is too small to be useful but if possible, aim for a minimum of 4 to 5 square meters surface area. This will allow frog or newts to breed, as well as some dragonfly species.

Shape is not critical, but is probably best kept simple. An informal curved shape will look good for a wildlife pond.

Depth profile is important. The deepest point should be at least 75cm, this will allow hibernating amphibians and invertebrates to survive the coldest winters when the pond is frozen over.

There should be a shelf about 20 to 30 cm deep to place emergent plants on. Finally, there should be a gently sloping shallow area; this can be used by bathing birds, and as it will warm up quickly in sunny weather will be occupied by many invertebrates.

You can find Part 2 here  

You can find Part 3 here  

You can find Part 4 here

Fiat Sedici. How to set display to miles per gallon (MPG)

When I bought my 1.9 Diesel Sedici the fuel economy was set at ltrs per 100km and I just couldn't get used to it. Tthe instruction in the manual didn’t work and it was driving me nuts. Anyway I found the solution on line so I thought I share it in case someone else was stuck too.

• Turn the ignition switch to the “ACC” or “ON” position while holding in the display button to the right of the fuel economy display.
• The display will blink.
• Push the display button in quickly to change the display from km to MPG
• Push the display button again for a blank display
• Push the display button again for km

Every push of the display button will continue to cycle through these 3 options.

Once you are on the desired display push the display button in and hold for more than 2 seconds, and the unit display will stop blinking and the display will stay on.

Done, hope that helps someone.

Sedici display showing MPG (Cam C902)

Baxi Duo-tec Combi Boiler E119 Low Pressure Fault

Although I’m going to talk about a low-pressure problem if you have the Baxi Duo-tec Combi Boiler then well done as it was voted Boiler of the Year (gotta love that title) 2008 at the CORGI Awards.  The award is voted for by the people who work with it on a daily basis.  The boiler was also awarded a 'Best Buy' by Which? in 2007 achieving the top score.

E119 low pressure fault
Let’s get to the recent fault and I hope this helps someone.  We have had this boiler for 3 years and very occasionally in the past it has lost pressure and switches itself off displaying an E119 fault on the display.  Reading the user instructions this was easily solved by re-pressurising the system and something you can do yourself.

This picture shows the display and pressure dial on the boiler.  (Cam: C902)

Recently though the E119 fault is occurring with more frequency.  The constant loss of pressure would indicate a leak somewhere in the system. The leak is either going to originate in the boiler or in the pipework and radiators.

First job then is to switch the thermostat down low so it will not call for heating.  Re-pressurise the boiler to 1.5 bar and then turn off the flow and return valves under boiler. This then creates a break between the boiler and the rest of the system and allows you to problem solve.  Leave it an hour or two…… A pressure drop on the dial indicates a leak in boiler.  No pressure drop indicates a leak from somewhere else, ie the pipework or radiators. 

Where is the flow and return valves?
Look under the boiler front at the pipes from the boiler, the 2 large ones 22mm will be flow and return to your CH system. The 3rd large one in the middlish is the gas pipe. Looking at my picture below you can see the valve on each pipe, turn these to a horizontal position to isolate the boiler.

The flow and return valves under my boiler.  (Cam C902)

In my case the pressure continued to drop indicating the leak was on the side of the boiler. I had laid some kitchen roll under the boiler to identify any drips.  From this I could the see the connector that was leaking and which required a quick tighten. Once I was happy that the leak was fixed the flow and return valves could be turned back on and the thermostat raised so the heating kicks in. I was lucky this was an easy fix.

If there is no pressure drop on the boiler dial then it’s time to check pipe joins, the radiator taps, bleed screws and any other joins where there could be a leak.  The signs of water seepage should be easy to detect with a finger or piece of kitchen roll.  Once the leak is detected you can take whatever remedial action is required.

Here is a bit of info from the manual.
E119 is displayed when the primary water pressure is less than 0.5 bar. After re-pressurising the system the boiler should operate.  The normal operating water pressure is between 1 and 2.0 bar. If the pressure exceeds 3 bar the safety pressure valve will operate and a fault is indicated.

Re-pressurising the system
It may be necessary to re-pressurise the system occasionally. A filling device (the filling loop) will be fitted on the system. This will be on the boiler itself, or on pipe work near to the boiler.  If you are unsure of its position, or cannot identify it, consult the installer who fitted the boiler.
The filling loop consists of two taps and a separate copper pipe with connection fittings. Only when re-pressurising should the copper pipe be connected between the two taps. (Note – I keep mine attached all the time).

Here’s the filling loop in situ  (Cam: C902)

Fully open the tap while watching the pressure gauge, when the needle on the gauge is indicating 1 or more turn off the tap.  Disconnect the copper pipe from the taps (Note – as I say I keep mine attached) and remove it. Keep the pipe in a safe place for future use.

Good luck if your in the same situation.

A word about frequent depressurizing.  If you find no leaks anywhere  my guess would be that your expansion vessel has lost pressure. The expansion vessel, or expansion tank, is the small tank used in closed hot water heating systems that helps to absorb water pressure. If it's lost it's 'charge' then as your water heats up the pressure builds and because the expansion vessel isn't doing its job then the PRV kicks in to protect the system and this will give a E119 fault. Theoretically you can recharge the expansion vessel yourself , but this is a job best left for an engineer.

Andy Pawlak In The Kitchen

Sometime in 1985 (after April) I bought a homemade demo tape titled 'In the Kitchen'.  The singer songwriter was a guy called Andy Pawlak.  I didn't even buy the tape off him, but off a friend of his.  The songs were recorded in his kitchen on the 4th April 1985 and I was hooked from the first listen, it was just him and his guitar. (And from the sound of it a shed load of talent and genius).

Here's a few pictures of the original tape.

'In the Kitchen' Front Cover (Cam K750i)

Inlay and Cassette (Cam K750i)

Inlay close up (Cam K750i)

I thought AP would make it big and would bang on about him to my mates.  In 1989 (give or take a year) he released a couple of singles and an LP called ‘Shoebox Full of Secrets’, which I bought.  He made at least one appearance on the TV, the program was Pebble Mill at One.

Anyway that ended up being that. I don't know how well the Album did, except no other album was produce and he just faded into obscurity.

Many years later when I was replacing my vinyl LP and tapes (converting from analogue to digital) I was confronted with AP again, all my other records were fairly mainstream and were easy to replace but ‘Shoebox Full of Secrets’ wasn't available.

 ‘Shoebox Full of Secrets’ Front Cover (Cam K750i)

Searching more deeply on the internet I found the album had been re-released in Japan and promptly ordered a copy, being even more happy that my Japanese copy was all printed in English.

All my vinyl and tapes are long gone, the only one tape I kept hold of was the homemade demo.  Over the years I've occasionally typed 'Andy Pawlak' into Google only to be met with a host of American University students, until now.

Andy Pawlak now exists on Myspace.

What a strange moment it was, I almost didn't believe this was him, but he was still doing music and it certainly sounded like him, good enough for me.  It transpires that a second album was recorded and finished but the record label was taken over before it's release, Andy Pawlak was dropped and the album was never released.

Scott Donaldson (a musical friend of AP’s) and Andy have re-recorded some of Andy’s old tracks from the second album and released them on iTunes under the name of Subdeluxe - Tales from the Monkey Shed. Find it here.   It is well worth a listen, how this guy never made it still surprises me.

Scott kindly offered to transfer the tape to CD so my collection is complete again.  It’s great to listen to the songs once more, can't believe that these songs are 22 years old.  Wow!  The song This our '85 is as relevant today as it was back then.

Visit Subdeluxe at Myspace here. Subdeluxe

Visit Andy Pawlak at Myspace here. Andy Pawlak

Visit Scott Donaldson at Myspace here. Scott Donaldson

Thanks

(For Reference - this blog first appeared on my ‘Myspace’ four years ago, it was my one and only blog).